Day 1 -- Friday, June 26
Dear Folks,
We left home at 10:30, headed for Bear Mountain, and finally reached Amherst, Massachusetts. I stayed at Amherst college last night and saw the place. We stayed at the physics professoręs house. Much impressed by college. Donęt mind riding in car -- find it comfortable -- getting along with everyone well-- having wonderful time.
Love, Paul
Day 2 -- Saturday, June 27
After a day of long traveling, which I didn't mind, we arrived at St. Johnsbury, Vermont. Here we met Billy Costia and we set off for Niagara Falls which we hope to hit Monday morning. It really surprised me but we take the riding very leisurely rarely going over 50 m.p.h. I can see now that we'll average about 250 to 300 miles per day.
Yesterday we traveled up to Bear Mountain and up to Amherst college at Amherst, Mass. There Mr. Stallings knew the Physics prof. A few of the boys and I then spent an interesting evening. We went down to the physics lab with the prof. to observe the experiment being made by a graduate student. He was experimenting and trying to find out the amount of energy given off by a tiny radioactive piece of Cobalt, taken from Oak Ridge, Tennessee, home of the A-bomb experimenting. This piece of Cobalt was as strong as a few grams of radium but it didn't last as long. The next morning, today, we inspected the college and I was very impressed with it. By the way, we spent the night on the Professor's back porch. I didn't get much sleep then (I only slept from 3 to 7) but I hope to make it up on the Costia's back porch tonight. Tomorrow we set off for the wilds.
Traveling today we saw Deerfield Academy and stopped off to see it. We also stopped at Hanover where I saw some of Dartmouth. It also is a very beautiful place.
So far the meals have been excellent. Friday noon we ate at a diner. At night we ate at the Amherst Cafeteria -- meals excellent. Friday noon we ate breakfast there and lunch at a nice place in the Hanover. After supper of sandwiches at the very hospitable Costia's, we had a game of softball.
The brace isn't bothering me so you need not worry. We heard the Louis-Wal fight and am glad with the results. I'll write to Grandma and the folks soon. I'm having a swell time and I'm sure it will continue. We're all getting along swell.
Day 3 -- Sunday, June 28
Last night I really had a good sleep. We shoved off from the Costia's and went to Burlington, passing through the state capitol. We went south and across the bridge at Port Henry. We went through Lake Placid but took a wrong turn at Saranac Lake and lost time plus 35 miles. We met a little rain, but going up a hill, the brake oil flowed out and we put up for two dollars in the Alpine Hotel after a meal in town. I will be sleeping in a double bed with Mr. Stallings.
I hope to get out of town by 10 and make the 300 miles to Niagara Falls by tomorrow. I met Billy Costia. He's a simple farm boy and a nice 6 foot guy. I'm sure we'll all get along together.
Day 5 -- Tuesday, June 30
I've really been having a wonderful time. Riding has been interesting, sleep fair but I'll get used to it, and there had been plenty of food.
As you know we got stuck at Saranac Lake but the next morning I was able to get out of town by 12:20. We rode through some rain and some sun and we were forced to put up about 50 miles from Buffalo at a gas station. That night night there were so many mosquitoes that I didn't sleep very well, but none of the others did either. I used the mosquito netting but I discovered that the buzzing of the flies bothered me as much as the stinging. That day we traveled 300 miles.
On Tuesday we traveled the few miles to Buffalo and then up to Niagara Falls. We went up the Canada side but customs only took us 10 minutes or so. The scenery on that side of the river was quite beautiful. By the way, on Monday we took a little detour and we were able to see Bob's folks at Clifton Springs. To continue, we reached Niagara Falls at about 1, took pictures of the beautiful, impressive Canadian Horseshoe Falls. I took a 75˘ trip under the falls but it was quite a farce for all we could see was water. It was interesting that for our little tour the people making the money (and they had quite a business) armed us with 2 ft. boots, raincoats, etc. Later we took an aero car which went a few hundred feet over the very famous whirlpool. All the while we stayed on the Canadian side. It was impressive, but too commercial. All in all we really liked the place. We continued our trip after some nice pictures (I hope I didn't expose them) through Ontario and camped about 70 miles from Detroit. That night I slept with Pop in a double bed, but boy did I sleep.
This morning we made our first meal. It was all cold but it was really very good -- melon, cereal with peaches, milk and cake. We then took the 70 miles in stride, went through customs at Windsor, across the bridge and then back to the U.S. and Detroit. Immediately we headed for the gigantic Ford plant in Dearborn 5 miles from Detroit to see whether we could see the plant. We were in luck. At 1:30 our guided tour began. The plant was gigantic, 2 miles square, about 4 square miles. Taken by bus, we first went to the motor assembly plant. It was really exciting. I have never seen mass production on as large a scale as that; it was really overwhelming. We saw the frame of the motors first and then saw it gain part after part until the finished product. It was wonderful to see how they made use of all space by having the motors and parts drawn by pulleys over and under our heads. We found out that the plant had railroads of it's own just to transport stuff. Next we went to the main assembly plant. We first saw the frame, the body and the frame, then the tires, headlights and by the end of the tour we saw the finished car come off the assembly line and we saw someone drive it off with all the accessories working. We got to know the guide which made the trip more pleasant. We found out that to complete one car from the very beginning of putting the frame together to the finished product takes 28 hours. Other interesting facts were: favorite car was maroon; convertibles have to have body changed; car should cost $1750 complete; there were 2 eight-hour shifts employing 70,000.
After an exciting and informative 2 hours we bought a watermelon and ate lunch. A funny procedure, eh? We then continued onto Lansing where we are now staying. We almost stayed in Detroit for the ball game -- too bad for we heard (on my radio) half of Lemon's no-hitter. Later this afternoon we saw Michigan University and tomorrow we'll see Notre Dame and Michigan U. We've been averaging about 300 miles per day. Lately I've been palling around with Bob and Billy Costia and we've been having a good time. Yesterday at supper the boys gave me a knife for my birthday. It was really a fine gesture. By the way thanks for the 10 bucks. It'll really come in handy.
Tonight we're sleeping in Lansing. I got mother's mail -- what happened to dad's, or doesn't he know how to write. By the way in the future you can address the mail to me not Pop. Tonight I went to the movies and saw the "Clock." I guess that takes care of all the news up to now. Just remembered something. At Saranac Lake we almost camped on the porch of the house (almost hotel) which the players of the Philadelphia Eagles and the N.Y. Rangers use when practicing at or near Lake Placid. I'm sure you'll get me mail but be sure, please, to give the mail list to Carl, Grandma, Jane, Jim or anyone who feels like writing. -- I thank you kindly for your kindness -- That's an expression that's been traveling around.
By the way, I think I have come to a result as to the type of college I want to attend. While eating supper at Michigan State College, then and there I decided that I was attending a 1000 pupil coed school. My mind might change but that's the way I feel right now. I hope you're not disappointed. By the way, you can let Carl see this mail so that I won't have to write to him continuously. I have enough trouble trying to get mail off to you. I'll try to get postcards off to you pretty regularly but I think you'll understand that it's pretty hard to write with a flashlight, with bugs buzzing, at 10 or 11 o'clock. However, I'll try my best. Please don't think I'm intoxicated because of the length of this letter. There won't be many more like these but I wanted to show you how much I am enjoying the trip. You'd be surprised at the things I've learned even up to this point. I'll send the Susies a few post-cards. That should satisfy them.
Love to all -- I really miss you.
Day 6 -- Thursday, July 1
I really had a wonderful sleep last night on Mrs. Beltz's back porch. I helped with the dishes, mowed the lawn and finally got out of town by 12. The clothes are holding out fine, but I really have too many of them. The elastic idea really does help.
Today we traveled through Michigan and dipped into Indiana to see Notre Dame. The place is beautiful and impressive. I was much impressed by the stateliness of the college. Most of the buildings are covered with stately ivy. Right now I am hungry. I just had cereal for breakfast. Most of the meals, however, have been excellent. We're on our way to see Tom's cousins in St. Joseph, Michigan.
Day 7 -- Friday, July 2
As you can guess, I am about to tour the Swift place in Chicago. The place here really stinks. Everything's swell. Last night I slept swell. I'm really grateful for all the opportunities you are affording me. Having a great time. I miss you and also Susie's cooking.
Day 9 -- Sunday, July 4
Please tell me whether you'd rather have me use air mail stamps. This is a funny way to start a letter but it was the first time that came into my mind. My last note came from the Swift Plant in Chicago. I trust you have received it. As you know, we had detoured to Tom's cousin in St. Joe. That night we had fun and so we didn't get to bed until 1. You see, they had an amusement park out of town and it really took out money -- only 55 cents of mine. I slept on their porch and had a wonderful night's sleep.
The next morning we set out early and reached Chicago at noon. We had a big brunch and then went to the stock yards and slaughterhouses. The smell was something awful. We got to the Swift Plant at 12:15 and the 1 1/4 hour tour started 15 minutes later. They supplied us with free post cards and stamps, so I wrote you or, better still, dropped you a line during my wait. I guess I'll now give you the gruesome details of the tour.
They took us down a long smelly corridor until we reached the pig's slaughtering house. I wish they hadn't started out with that but they did. First we saw the pigs herded into a pen about 10 X 25. A man, only one was working in the pen. About 15 pigs were huddled together in a corner. The man then tied a noose, tied it to the pig's legs and hooked the clamp that was on the rope to a pulley system. This pulled the pig right off the ground so that it was hanging about 1 foot above the ground. The next man on line had a knife in his hand. As each pig came by he slit it's jugular vein. All it's blood came pouring out. The pigs struggled a little after that but not much. It was terrible. He died quickly and they then put him through boiling water. Government inspectors were all over. The next thing we were able to see was an inspector taking out all the insides. Bobby (Hersh) laughed at the sight but it disgusted me. The meat then went down to an ice room. There the pig was split and chopped into the various cuts -- shoulder, ham and the loin. It was all a mass production process and all the men worked skillfully. Later on we saw bacon, salami, etc. after the smoking process. We also saw women in a clean part of the building packing the stuff.
From the pigs we went on to the cattle. We were on a little platform on the end of the room but we were able to view the whole process. We saw about 100 cattle on one side of the room. A colored man went up and down on top of the stalls and hit each steer or cow separately with a big mallet. One blow was usually enough. When the door to their partition opened they rolled to the main floor, still and silent although reflexes kept a few bones moving, but not dead. A man then took a large knife (all this after the cow had been strung up) and slit it's jugular vein. A man with a bucket caught the blood as it flowed out. Each cow filled about 1 bucket the size of a water pail. This blood and other unusable parts of the cow are all saved and then used as fertilizer. The head was then cut off and immediately the workers went to work on him with saws, axes, hatchets, etc. They worked quite efficiently. By the way, I just learned that they can completely disassemble 300-600 pigs an hour. The cows were killed at almost the same rate because of the many more workers. We were then taken back to the office and we immediately got out of town. I was sorry that we wouldn't see the Loop and more of Chicago but everyone was anxious to get away from the awful stench. It was stomach turning, but I'm glad I went.
We traveled a few hours and then camped in Starved Rock National Park in Illinois. We made supper (we still haven't made a hot meal) and played football and then went swimming. There were plenty of mosquitoes so we put up tents and as a result slept well.
By the way, if there's anything you want me to include in these letters, please speak up.
Yesterday we traveled through Illinois and crossed the Mississippi into Iowa. Where we crossed it was pretty narrow so I really couldn't form in my mind a good impression of it. We ate breakfast at 12 opposite a sand dune on a side road; lunch was at 5. After lunch I had the biggest milk shake I've ever had. For 20 cents they give you 3 scoops of ice cream and it makes the thickest and best milk shakes in these parts. We ate supper at 9 and camped on an island in a fork between two highways, south-west of Des Moines at Creston. It was noisy but, surprisingly, I slept exceptionally well. My wonderful sleep was interrupted at 5:30 and I ate a full breakfast of 2 eggs, cereal, toast, juice and milk. We fixed a flat on our trailer tire and got started. It's now 11 and we're headed for Peru, Nebraska.
And now I'll give you an idea of the many thoughts racing through my mind. Of all the many luxuries I have been accustomed to enjoying I miss most Susie's cooking (although I get plenty of good hearty food), decent toilet facilities, a comfortable bed (although I've been sleeping very well lately) and a catering family.
Uh, oh! I just remembered that I forgot to write to grandma on her birthday, July third. Please send or give her my love and I'll see whether I'm able to write to her soon.
Traveling in the mid-west is totally enjoyable. We've hit a lot of rain but the scenery is beautiful. All around us are orderly rows of wheat, hay, but mostly corn. I take it you know that Iowa is in the middle of the corn belt. Illinois was fairly flat but throughout the state we could see dirt piled high -- the remains of surface coal mining. Other interesting landmarks that bespecalled (covered) the rolling hills of Illiana (border between Illinois and Indiana) are the extraordinary sand dunes.
People out here are very friendly and congenial. I'm glad to get away from New York's cheap money-making, fast-moving bourgeois crowd.
It's very peaceful now. Three of the boys are sleeping. I've tried to but I'd rather sleep at night. Also I find it difficult to sleep in the car. If I get bored with the scenery (and now all you can see is corn) I write, relax, talk, or read one of the Erskine Caldwell's short stories. We got a small pocket book of them and I enjoy his writing.
I am completely healthy and relaxed. My brace has long since stopped bothering me. I can't wait until July 21, however, when I can take it off and use it only at night.
I'm glad I have both the duffel and the parachute pack along. I haven't used or even opened (oh yes, once for my poncho and once to store some of Bob's things) my duffel. The elastic band has worked out swell. I can put my hand on almost anything.
Tell me if you can't read my writing while we're driving but otherwise I can't guarantee the number of letters.
It is really amazing how much I've learned about farms, nature, etc. and how much I realize I don't know. Stallings is quite intelligent on those matters and he really knows his stuff.
If this letter is getting boring you don't have to read it but right now I just feel like writing.
We have been able to hear Mr. Stallings' radio but, at meals or after supper, my radio comes in handy. It is [sic] necessary but it's nice to have around once in awhile.
The car's holding up pretty well and we don't have to do much to it. We haven't yet ridden with the top down but we will when we get out west. I haven't yet driven the car but I expect very soon or at least in a week. It's a shame the way we lounge all over the car with our shoes off -- bad for our posture -- but it's comfortable.
Most of my money has gone into Coca Cola and milk shakes but I expect to buy a watermelon one of these days.
Our laundry hasn't been sent out yet, but I'm not worried since I have too many clothes. We travel like tramps, washing once in awhile (usually every morning unless we can't get to the facilities) swimming once in awhile (twice so far). I think we all love it.
I haven't used the camera [pen ink switches to pencil] (I've used up two fountain pen's worth of ink) yet very much but when we get to the parks I'll start shooting. I don't need the sun glasses and I'm glad I have no fishing equipment along. (Right now the driver and I are the only ones awake). If I ever do I'll be able to rent some stuff.
We all get along together. However we get a kick out of Mr. Stallings' eccentricities. He always buys $2 worth of gas and when the needle registers 0 we look for gas and get another $2 worth. We all got a kick last afternoon when Mr. Stallings picked up 2 filthy Pepsi cola bottles at our camping grounds and returned them to get the 4 cents deposit money. We never go above 55 m.p.h. Mostly at 45 so don't worry. We're nearing the Missouri river and I'm out of paper.
Remember me to everyone at home.
Day 13 -- Thursday, July 8
I guess I left you some place in the corn fields of Nebraska. That was about the time when the temperature started soaring to 95 and 100. Luckily this only lasted 2 days. We traveled on to Peru, Nebraska where we rested and slept. In the evening, we had a good time swimming as the fourth of July fire crackers popped from all directions. That night we slept at the dorm at the local college. Sleeping is getting much easier. The meals have been hearty but not as good as those at home. All the boys are getting along fine. We're having a wonderful time. We continued on to North Platte, Nebraska covering 364 miles, our largest total for a day's traveling. That night we decided to camp at 12, so we stopped, had a soda, turned right at the Log Cabin gas station, and tried to sleep on the roadside. It was late so we didn't put up tents -- boy, the mosquitoes bother us. They were quite awful and I slept in a towel. We traveled on across Nebraska and down to Colorado. That day we visited friends of Mr. Stallings on a huge farm. We watched them work their 800 acre wheat field and all the other accessories of farm life. We even helped to load wheat into the truck. It was very interesting. With a wonderful meal in my stomach and a kleenex in my pocket, we left.
So far we have passed through 4 time zones, so, if this reaches you on time, I don't think I'll be able to write to you.
That night we camped in Sterling, Colorado. I didn't feel good at all and so I didn't go to town for supper. Bob got me some milk, aspirins, nose drops, etc. and I could hear the voice of the announcer of a ball game as I fell to sleep.
So far we've traveled through 12 states and 1 province. By the way, I took my hand at the wheel the other day and did pretty well.
We continued on to the bottom of the Rockies, stocked up on our food supply, and then road up to Rocky Mt. National Park. It is really something up here. We're about 9,000 ft. up and it's pretty hard to breathe because of the height. To top it all I have a little cold -- I hope it goes away. Last night the temperature dropped to 45. Also we're able to see the snow on the mountains. I have some pretty good pictures of the sights up here. This morning we took a five hour hike up to a lake about 10,000 ft. high. It was really something. The views are awe-inspiring. I don't feel like writing any more and I'd like a swim so I'm signing off. Love to all, I miss you.
Day 17 -- Monday, July 17
I guess you were pretty disappointed when I didn't call you yesterday but it was pretty hard for me even to get 50 miles from a long distance telephone line. There is a three hour distance in time and to top that we were in a town no closer than 50 miles to a spot on the map. If I call you at all it will be on about Sunday at night dinner July 18. We will be in Las Vegas then and if we have some money left Alan and I will try and call you.
I'm awfully sorry to hear about your eye, mother, but I trust by the time this reaches you you'll be feeling perfect. I, too, have been having my troubles. Lately I've had a cold and I haven't been enjoying myself as I ought to. By now, however, I think I am on the road to recovery all because of my medicinal experience. For three days I've been having hot soup, cocoa, etc., I've been taking aspirins (once a day) and I've been just looking out for myself more than I usually do. My weight hasn't dropped off for we're having 3 square meals a day. We're having a great time although some of the boys are wishing for their girls.
By the way please, (since I am wrong) address my letters P.J. c/o U.S. By the way (I hope you don't mind repetition) we're about 4 days late so you can write a little more. Hey, Pop † I'm still waiting for that letter from you. Do Carl, Grandma, etc. have my address?
Well here comes a little of what we did this last week. Rocky Mountain National Park was beautiful. We slept right at the bottom of a mountain and the next day we climbed 4 miles to a lake up there. It was gorgeous. To add a little, the town of Estes Park was a •hot' little
place. That night we ate in an Italian restaurant. The sauce on the spag[etti] -- was hot, but, boy dad, you should have tasted their peppers.
We pulled out of Estes and went to Denver. We traveled along poor roads but gazed on beautiful scenery. We went along Trail Ridge road and saw the continental divide. Denver is a neat little town -- compact, pretty and up and coming. We slept in cabins-- our third time -- and we ate in the YMCA. I still had a bad cold, so I got a whole double bed to myself. All this week we haven't been below 5,000 ft and most of the time we've been at 8,000. The highest point we hit was 12,185 ft. in Estes Park. There was so much snow that some of the boys got out of the car to pose in a snow fight for the cameras. I've taken some pictures so far but I've wasted about 5 also. Early one morning was spent trying to get a picture of a chipmunk that was hiding under a rock, I got two pictures, but I wasted my beautiful color film.
To continue we were pretty high up and it was pretty hard to climb (and to breathe). To get a picture, once we climbed about 100 ft. Bob decided to run up and by the time he reached the top he was actually purple in the face. (I was out of color film † too bad).
We continued down from Denver on mountain roads (actually trails) until we hit Mesa Verde National Park. By the way, we waited almost 2 weeks before we got our laundry done in Denver. It came back perfect and none of the colors ran. We got here just after sunset, stocked up, and headed for the top. The sight when we got up and as we were going up was different. I'll have pictures of the place but I try shortly to describe the place.
We started up to a ridge which is surrounded completely by deep ravines and cavern. Life here started at about 400 AD where and when Indians made Pueblos out of the sides of the mountain. They then left this place in 1276-1300 because of draught. The ruins here were discovered in the 18th Century and been traveled over ever since. It really is wonderful however, how men are able to determine accurately customs, dates, people, etc.
It's really been a riot going through these western towns. Most of us have won on the nickel dime quarter slot machines but I'm losing about 15˘ -- I've only played three times -- we're all waiting to get to Las Vegas so that Al can show us how to break the bank. I won't be able to gamble (as if I would) but I'll play the slot machines (once in a while). Cowboys go riding through these towns with guns, bandanas, spurs, etc. and we really enjoyed it. We all got a kick the other day when a young tourist looked at Bob in his new straw hat and said, "Look mommy, there's a cowboy."
I hope you don't mind my eccentricity of skipping back in forth from idea to idea in my letter -- if you do it's too bad.
This morning we got up early and took our first look around the place. We went through the museum as they recommend and then started to see the ruins. (Just had dinner of soup, a mickey, frankfurters (2), peaches and milk. It was pretty good well, back to the letter). The trouble was that after the first sight, almost everything was the same. This afternoon we took a tour. It was fairly interesting. Tonight we're going to a campfire in which we expect theIndians here to do some ceremonial dance. It will probably be interesting.
We head now for the Grand Canyon, after that comes the night driving across the desert of Arizona. I'm getting bored writing to you † I hope you're not bored reading this junk. Please keep writing † miss you all.
Day 19 -- Wednesday, July 14
We're stuck in Flagstaff, Arizona because of the car. Cold is much better -- very disappointed with Painted Desert. All I saw were red rocks. Having a good time. The other night, saw a Ranger Talk and some crazy Indians dancing. The hat was passed around and I gave 10 cents. Expect to be at Grand Canyon tomorrow, Thursday. Will try to call you from Las Vegas. I liked Mesa Verde National Park.
Day 20 -- Thursday, July 15
Dear Mom and Dad (I guess I'll allow dad to read this but he hasn't written),
I'm now at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, waiting for the evening's performance at the hotel. It is really very beautiful but it didn't live up totally to my expectations. It is a large red canyon which had its birth because of volcanoes, soil eruption, etc. It was prettiest at sun down when the light made the colors even more spectacular. I'm in a hall of the lodge overlooking the 100 mile (I think) canyon, looking through the large panel glass windows.
Tonight we are going to see movies, hear speeches about the place, and afterwards there's a dance. I'll go to the first two but I'll wait and see about the dance -- I don't want to feel awkward -- it'll depend upon the ages of the girls.
I'll now give you a picture of what happened during the last few days. I hope you got my postcard (I also wrote to Susie, Carl, Grandma and Grandpa, and Jim from Flagstaff) so you know that we got stuck or (better yet) were laid up there. Our two front wheels were out of alignment and it cost Pop over $40. But that wasn't the end to our troubles. We're having generator troubles and I think Pop needs a new one.
We left Flagstaff at 7. I tried to get the Democratic Convention on the radio but I couldn't get it, and we traveled across the desert to a spot 40 miles from here. We arrived there at 12. I slept well but I discovered that there's a leak in my mattress. (Please excuse the blotches but I can't do better). We left there at 10 and got here for lunch. This afternoon we rested. We're headed for Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park and I better get mail. I will try to call you at 7 eastern standard time from Las Vegas on 18th or 19th or thereabouts.
Day 25 -- Tuesday, July 20
I was awfully glad to hear your voice. Both of you sound swell. I'm now writing in the car as we head south for the Mexican Border, so please excuse the poor writing.
If I recall, the last time I wrote to you was at the Grand Canyon. We were at the North Rim of the canyon and it wasn't too crowded. We had a good time at the place, although I was "chicken" to dance. We left the canyon, had our generator fixed and headed for Bryce Canyon. We arrived there in time to see the beautiful red rock formations (quite unusual they were) before the sun went down.
Next day, after a dance at night, we headed for Zion National Park. The rocks weren't colored there, but they were just as pretty as Bryce's. On entering the park you have to pass through many tunnels, the longest of which was 1/2 mile. The road was very steep winding towards the bottom of a ravine. I trust that you got my note from there. I got a picture of that big rock but I'm sure it will look nothing like the picture of the Post Card. I've finished my role of colored film. Should I send it to Rochester? It costs nothing to have the pictures developed but I hear it costs 75 cents each to have them printed. Please check on it. I think I'll have my black and white pictures developed myself while on the road.
I haven't spent much money yet but some of the boys who came with $40 or so are broke. Bob sent home for more money and I will soon. Both Billy and Al have over $150 but they plan to buy experience Mexican stuff. So far I've spent about $10-$15, not more than $1 at a time. That dollar was for a watermelon I treated the boys to. (You should never use a preposition to end a sentence with). You see in Peru, Nebraska I found a dollar on the street when Al was teaching me to drive. By the way I haven't really driven yet. (Except for Al's lesson). I have just steered once or twice so there is no need to worry.
Well, to continue with my exposition -- as a matter of curiosity we have gone 5606 miles an average of 220 miles per day. I just felt like writing that, so please don't mind. From Zion National Park we drove on to Las Vegas arriving at about 9. Going through Arizona, however, was quite disappointing as well as discouraging. For 50 miles around there might have been nothing but road, cactus, weeds and dry dust. It was surely barren. The land that was perfectly useless, Uncle Sam gave it to the Indians. By the way, all of Southern Arizona, part of New Mexico and others were just packed with "injuns". None of them talked very much and they weren't too friendly. It didn't seem however that they bore grudges against us tourists.
Gee, the sun's out. This California weather is most peculiar. It is very misty in the morning, almost raining. Then at about 12, the sun comes shining through. The nights aren't hot but they're certainly not cool.
Well, we arrived at Vegas as 9. Pop gave us $1 for supper and we each went our way. Bob, Al, and Tom all got into the gambling halls, the name of some of which were "The Golden Nugget," "The Pioneer Club," "Frontier," "Eldorado Club," and others. The town was very colorful but it was entirely a tourist town. Every bar, eating place, drug store, department store -- in short every store in town had gambling machines -- we call them one-armed bandits.
About 20-40 per cent of the money put in goes to the owner of the machines. I never saw and didn't see anyone take a jackpot. For 5 cents the jackpot is $8 -- $.10 was $20 -- $.25 was $35 -- $.50 was $75 -- $1 was $150. They also had $.01 or penny machines but we didn't pay much attention to them. The boys didn't make out very well. The first night Bob lost more than $1.00 -- Tom lost about $5 -- Al won about $5 -- I lost about $.50 and that was when I could sneak a game in a drug store.
At about 12 we then headed for Boulder City and our camping sight. We then camped on Lake Mead. The next morning Tom and Bill, who are Catholic, went to church, so Al and I tried to call you from Boulder City. You were out. We then had our trailer fixed. Two hours later at 10 or at 1 your time we tried to call again. We could hear Marshall talking to the operator but we found out that again you weren't there. We returned to Lake Mead, the largest artificial lake in the world (115 miles long).
The day until 2 we spent in the lake. We went to get a soda and we discovered that the temperature was 110 in the shade next to an ice box. You can't imagine "heat that hot". At two we then headed to Hoover Dam, which was once called Boulder Dam. We took a tour through the place and took pictures, we went to the bottom and viewed the power houses. It was interesting. We returned to town so that we could see free movies there. Al and I then called you.
We went back to camp, swam awhile and then went to Las Vegas for supper at 9. We ate and again the boys tried their luck. They all lost but not as heavily as the night before. Al at one time I heard was $30 ahead, but he lost it in addition to a silver dollar or two or three or four... We then had our first real night driving. Leaving town at night it was around 100 degrees.
Entering L.A. almost 300 miles later the temperature was hovering around 60. Quite a change. By the way out here they pronounce Los Angeles with a hard G as in "good" and not with a G as in "George". We headed for Pop's brother's gas station right on Sunset Blvd. We ate breakfast at a Jewish-Hungarian restaurant where I had lox for breakfast in addition to rye bread. For lunch that day I had cold cut sandwiches along with an extra order of wonderful pickles. However, let's return to L.A.
We had many things to do. Billy had his glasses fixed, I got a box of Kleenexes (I only use 2 or 3 a day by now), and Bob went to the doctor. He had an ingrown toe nail and the Doc fixed him up. When we returned I got up enough courage to call Hannah Frankel. She was very nice and she gave me Helen's phone number in addition to the information that Ellen Barber and her group will be in L.A. on about Friday. We expect to see Mexico today and L.A. Wednesday and Thursday. I think that we'll miss them.
Anyway, I called Helen and got her address. After lunch the boys and I drove them 7 miles to Burbank outside the city limits. They were thrilled to see us. Only Helen and Henry were there. We chatted, drank their soda, and ate peaches for their own peach trees. They also have figs, apricots and strawberries. In addition to that they have a white bungalow and a new blue Buick (Try those three words quickly a few times -- you'll have a tough time). Helen said that they're having a tough time getting people in the movies. She said that she'd try but there wasn't much hope. She volunteered however to get us tickets for a radio show Thursday afternoon. I thanked her and headed back to LA. On the way back we saw part of the Hollywood Bowl, the outside of Warner's studios (a big treat) and Hollywood and Vine Streets in Hollywood. L.A. and vicinity was a new era in our trip. The whole city is filled with peculiar palm trees. I've never seen them before. Also it's the first time during the day in a long time that we've been able to listen to the radio.
We're now going through San Diego. It's really a buzzing town. I wanted to see La Jolla, but the boys overruled me.
We left L.A. yesterday at 4 and traveled towards San Diego. We camped about halfway down and left early this morning (at 11). You should see all the ships -- destroyed cruisers, etc. -- we can see now. It's quite impressive.
Well I hope you're satisfied with this letter. They don't come often but I'll try to drop a few post cards. Tell me the news of the shore since no one from there writes me. Your mail and a one page letter from Carl has been the extent of my letter reading. We're having a swell time but I still miss you.
Day 30 --Sunday, July 25
It's been a long time since I last wrote you but I've been having such a good time that I haven't been able to tear myself away. I take it you received my letter from San Diego written in the car. I tried to mail it from Mexico but I already had a US stamp on it.
We pulled into Tia Juana at noon and I went around with Bill to buy some jewelry. I didn't feel like wasting my money on Mexican silver so I didn't buy you anything -- I hope both of you don't mind. I helped Bill pick out some bracelets, earrings, etc. It took almost three hours. I then returned to the car, ate some Bazzias (hot meat with "hot" chili) in the shape of a frank and waited for the others. By the way, down there Bob bought a 20lb. watermelon for 35˘. Another interesting note -- Bill bought $8.00 worth of jewelry and he had to give 55% or $4.40 to the customs officials.
I have no light to write with so please excuse my poor writing.
We returned to LA and Pop took the car. Immediately, Bob and I called Helen to see what was up. She was really wonderful. She wasn't able to get movie passes but she got us all tickets for "Double or Nothing" and "Andy Russell Show", two very good radio programs. She also informed us that Ellen Bailen and her trip were in. We (Bob and I) then called the girls (Bob took one and I took Ellen) and picked them up at the Turnabout theater at 11:00 p.m. We were going to go dancing at the Palladium but we couldn't get in -- you have to be 18. We fooled around for a few hours and brought them back at 2 in the morning. We didn't have a very good time but it was o.k. We returned to the gas station where we were staying (Pop's brother owned it) and got to sleep. Pop still hasn't learned about it.
The next morning Al, Bob and I went up to Helen's where we showered, ate a wonderful breakfast and got the tickets for the radio show. This was at 9:15 so Bob and I really didn't get much sleep. The program started at 11 but the doors closed at 10:30. Al had a date with a big shot at RKO or one of the studios so he didn't go. We returned to the station, but Tom and Bill weren't there. At 10:25 we had Al drive us the mile to the studios and if possible bring the boys there too. Bob and I got in, but Tom and Bill didn't make it. We enjoyed the show and had a lot of fun. We took in a movie in the afternoon, went sight seeing and saw the stars homes in Beverly Hills. One exciting thing happened. We were driving home -- and this is no tall tale -- and we had to pull up for a red light. Alongside us pulls up a •42 Lincoln convert with a chauffeur and a fat man with a small growth on his chin. Who was it? No one else but Charles Laughton. We jumped out of our seats but we got no autograph or any words from him.
That night we ate in a swanky Italian restaurant where we all drank a little wine. For your information we didn't see Pop for almost our whole stay in LA. We pushed off that night, camped at 2, and pushed off in the morning for Fresno. From Fresno we decided to come to Yosemite and then to San Fran and Palo Alto rather than S.F., P.A. and then Yosemite. It messes up the mail schedule but don't worry. Just stick to our mail stops on the card and keep writing.
By the way, I got a letter from grandma -- she didn't say much but it was good to hear from her. I haven't been able to write to Carl very much so would you, if you think it all right, just send this and my other letters sent to you, to him. I try to write but it is awfully hard to get off a letter.
We got to Yosemite and was I surprised. It is the most popular of the national parks. There must be over 2,000 people here now. Yosemite is made up of beautiful -- and they are -- waterfalls and steep, extremely so -- my pictures will prove that, mountains. We got here Friday night and we leave tomorrow -- Monday morning.
The first day Saturday we swam in ice chunked ponds -- or so it seemed -- went sight seeing, etc. I met Morty Smith a boy 1 year behind me at Newark Academy. I also met Brian "something" who went to camp with me two years ago. They are on a trip with 25 boys and 25 girls.
Today I spent a most pleasant but tiring day. I had always heard of the beautiful mountain "Half Dome," so Pop, Bob, Bill and myself made or started off for the 8 1/4 miles up and the 8 1/4 miles down. After church, Bill joined us and we didn't get started until 10:30. This was real, honest to goodness mountain climbing. We followed trails but it was tough. We used ropes near the top and then rails. I'll tell you what they were. There were rails sticking from the rocks every 10 ft. They were on both sides of us and there were chains connecting the rails. At every post there was a piece of wood on the ground so you wouldn't slip. I will try to illustrate. It was quite an experience. The mountain was at an angle of more than 45 degrees. We got to the top after four hours and after getting pictures of two impressive waterfalls, the boys, and three inquisitive deer. They run around wild, but they are almost willing to eat out of your hand. We have also seen, besides many deer, four bears.
The site from the top was beautiful but I wonder whether it was worth a full days work and a few pounds off me. I don't think I lost much weight and what I lost I'll put on easily in a week or less.
We came back down in three hours but it was certainly 10 times easier than going up. We came back to camp, went for a swim, more of a dunk because of the freezing water, and returned to camp to eat supper. I fixed up all my belongings -- my glasses broke, but I didn't use them...hence I won't miss their loss -- and started to write you.
I am now able to recall a few of the interesting events I forgot to mention to you. On the drive from San Diego to L.A. -- we took some oranges off a tree -- we didn't steal them -- we just took them -- (that wasn't one of the interesting events) -- we stopped at the San Juan Capistrano Mission and looked over the place. It was beautiful and the many white pigeons made a big impression on me -- also the beautiful flowers -- the second thing was -- upon entering Yosemite we took a detour and we were able to see a redwood grove. Since we are leaving out Sequoia National Park we saw these. The largest tree we saw was about 280 feet high and about 30 feet in diameter. They were all monstrous. We even were able to drive through one of the larger ones -- whew, I just looked at my watch and I've been making record time -- I've only spent 1 hour on this letter so far. However I want to get to sleep early so I won't write much more.
The third of the interesting events that I didn't want to forget to tell you about is the fire fall. Every evening here at Yosemite (probably only for the summer months) at 9 o'clock it takes place. We are situated deep in the valley and many mountains such as Half Dome and Glacier Point surround us. However, from Glacier Point, about 3,000 ft from the valley floor -- wait -- a few statistics -- the valley is 4,000 ft above sea level -- Half Dome is 9,969 ft up and Glacier Point about 7,000 ft up -- to continue -- from Glacier Point the embers from a red hot redwood tree are pushed over the cliff. They fall on rocks so no harm is done. The sight nevertheless is very awe-inspiring. You can see one solid stream of red falling from a point. It is worth taking a picture of it but I found that there isn't enough light.
Well I guess I ought to go off to dreamland -- first a few interesting notes. I've used a color roll and 2 rolls of black and white film. My radio is working fine. I have too many clothes especially warm stuff but it doesn't bother me. I've used 4 flashlight batteries so far -- something is wrong -- my light meter is working swell.
I'm using the dashboard light and Pop just asked us to quit. I'm having a swell time too. You don't know how much I miss you.
Day 33 -- Wednesday, July 28
We just went though the Italian Swiss Colony Wine plant. It was not a big mass production plant but it was interesting. They serve you wine as you enter or leave -- as much as any over 21 wants. Having a swell time. Ate in San Francisco Chinatown.
Day 37 -- Sunday, August 1
Today's August first, Carl's birthday and we're camping in the gym of a schoolhouse in Southern Washington only 50 miles north of Portland, Oregon. We're on our way up to Mt. Ranier, Olympia National Pk. and then Bamph and Lake Louise. For Carl's Birthday I sent him a long 10 page letter and if I see anything worth while buying for him, I'll get it.
Since I last wrote you from Yosemite nothing really exciting has happened. We've just been having a damn good time!!
From Yosemite we went to San Francisco. We saw Fisherman's Wharf, the Golden Gate bridge (we went over it), we went up the famous cable car, and we even decided to eat in Chinatown. Boy -- what a feast! I'll try to give you a rough sketch of our $8 for 6. We had among other things -- a chicken soup much like clear eggdrop but it had peas, tomatoes and a few other vegetables. Then came fried prawns (like shrimp), sweet and pungent spareribs, pork in a sauce with a green vegetables like lettuce, fried rice, chicken chow mein, pork and chicken in a good sauce and of course, good tea. We actually finished everything and it was a wonder none of us got sick.
Talking about health, I might as well add a word or two about
myself. My cold has long been gone and I have been able to enjoy totally all the interesting events, sights, etc. The few pounds I might have lost climbing Half Dome at Yosemite I have easily gained back. In fact I've been eating so like a horse that I'm sure I've put on a few lbs. As for height, I'm not so sure. I'm with a bunch of six footers so it's pretty hard to compare my great increases. If any, maybe, I've gone up higher into the world by 1/4 of an inch. Certainly, this rough life with hearty and wholesome meals, and nights on a leaky air mattress, has done me no harm.
I wrote to Jimmy to see if he'll be at the ranch on about August 20. That's when we plan to go about 40 miles from his place. I sent him my mail stop and I hope to learn that I'll be able to see him. From Montana, as you know, we come speeding across the states and Canada. We'll be back sometime around September first -- not that I'm interested in rushing the trip or anything but that I'd like to keep you well informed.
Right now I have about four things on mind. First I would like to get my films developed, but we haven't stayed in any one place in order to give me time. I would also like to mosey into an Army Navy store and get an air pillow and also a furlough kit (that's what they call it). Actually it's a kit for toilet articles and nothing more.
Please don't expect more writing because it's late and I want to get back to my abridged edition of Tolstoy's "Anna Karenina".
Well lets get back to the task of telling about my trip. By the way -- I stopped writing in my diary on July 4th but I'll see if I can catch up. I'll spend all tomorrow in the car doing that, as well as trying to catch the interesting sights.
Leaving San Francisco, we went over the Golden Gate Bridge, seeing on the way Alcatraz and San Quentin. Both were uninteresting, but I got a picture of Alcatraz.
We traveled on robbing peaches, apricots and pears. It's really a delightful way to travel -- always well supplied.
We stopped in Asti, Ca. and really enjoyed ourselves. That's the home of Italian Swiss Colony Wines. Upon entering we were ushered into a waiting room where everyone (I wasn't supposed to) drank or should I say sampled wines such as Tokay, Muskatel, burgundy and port. I felt a little dizzy as we started the tour but it soon cleared up.
We weren't able to see much, for the active season was in the fall. However, we did see the giant redwood vats, the refining and sterilizing rooms, as well as the world's largest wine vat -- a huge cement vat that held 300,000 gallons of wine. We got the whole dope on the amount of alcohol going into the wines. Sweet wine has 20% while dry only has 12%.
On our way we again sampled their wine and then took off. We traveled through California, through the desert of Idaho and up to the Columbia River. Today we had a beautiful drive along the Columbia viewing about four extraordinary waterfalls. We whizzed through Portland and we were able to see where the flood did so much damage at Vanport. That flood really struck. Houses have collapsed and the place is still under water. No one at all is living there. I could really image what a disaster that was. We crossed the Columbia at Portland, went through Vanport and Vancouver, Washington and finally ended up in this schoolhouse.
Just keep on writing -- you know I just live to hear from you.
By the way, if you want a good murder mystery to see go to "Lady From Shanghai". I saw it last night -- Orson Welles was wonderful and Rita Hayworth was certainly easy to look at.
I really miss you both.
Day 42 -- Friday, August 6
We're spending our third day here at Pacific Beach (on the ocean in Northern Washington). Each day since my last letter has been packed with experience, thrills, fun and excitement. It's been raining lately, but we are comfortably situated in cabins. Right now I'm eating a nice green apple (at 14 cents a pound) so please excuse, if there are any, the drops or stains.
When I last wrote to you, we were in a schoolhouse in Longview, Washington. We planned to head north the very next day, but we learned that we were able to pick up a little new information at a lumber mill, fiber plant, plywood plant, etc. We got to the Long Bell Lumber Co. (the largest in the world) and by the way it's right on the Columbia River, at 10:15 and learned that the tour had left at 10. We then started wandering. Our first stop was the Longview Fiber Plant. We saw the logs cleaned, turned into wood pulp and
then rolled. During the rolling process, great pressure and heat turned the wood pulp to paper. We had a personal guide through the place, but we still couldn't understand everything. This was the least interesting of the places we saw, for we weren't able to see everything.
After our personal tour, we went to a private lumber company (very small -- only 1 small hooded shed). There the log is towed up, sent through a large saw, and then through a smaller one. The sawdust they are able to sell to the Fibre Company and the bark they cut up to make sawdust. This tour (actually a talk with the foreman) was very interesting since we could note the whole operation. It's so much easier to describe it through words than on paper that I'd rather wait to get home to give you a picture of it.
We then viewed a log dump. There the trucks just dump the logs into the water. They kept the logs in water for storage so that bark bugs and other insects wouldn't make a mess of the log. This was a simple but interesting fact that I didn't know.
We ate our lunch and were out at the L.B. Lumber Company by two o'clock. By the way, I bought some hot chili's and boy do they burn your mouth. I gave myself a limit of 1 a day. To continue -- we really saw the logs cut up, assorted, steamed, cut up for furniture for Sears - Roebuck & company, and shipped out in sticks or in furniture pieces. This was really worth seeing for everything was as clear as day.
After this tour we figured we had seen about as much as one can see in the field of lumbering. We hadn't however. We ambled down to the M & M Plywood Company and we tried to get in. "Absolutely no tours were allowed and no guides were available," they told us but they said we could go around by ourselves. For a solid two hours we had the time of our lives. We saw them bathe the logs (take off the bark) and then sheer off the lumber into thin strips. After this it was steamed, patched, and then made into 3 ply, 5 ply, etc. boards. It was really interesting, and even more so since we were able to go where we wished.
We came out at 5, ate supper, saw a movie, and again (for the second night) slept in the schoolhouse. The next morning we were ready to travel. By noon we weren't far from Olympia -- a mail stop and the state capital. We saw signs advertising that tours were run through the Olympian Brewing Company so guess what we did? You're right -- we toured the place. We saw them brew the stuff- we went into refrigerating rooms at the temperature of 33 degrees and at the end of the tour guess what they did? Right again. I drank both of Bob's glasses of Olympic Beer. I enjoyed it so well that, after we picked up our mail, I even went to sleep in the car.
We got to Pacific Beach around 5. It's not a famous spot but the beach is beautiful. It extends for miles and all along you can view the waves rolling in. It's a swell place to spend a week vacation -- and believe it or not there are a few interesting things to do. The first morning we expected to get up at 5:30 (in the morning) and go hunting for clams. The clams here are called razor clams- their shells are soft and they are about three times the size of the ones we get from the Atlantic. We didn't get up until 7 so we postponed it until the next day -- Thursday -- today. We went looking for berries -- black and blue and huckle -- but none were ripe. If we had gotten here a week later we would have gotten "oodles and oodles" of them.
The boys went to the movies, but Bob and I went to the beach. We saw some dying embers and, under the moon, built up a fire. We then bought marshmallows and a quart of milk and feasted. It was swell.
We got to bed pretty late (11 or later) and we never expected to get up for clamming but we did. At 5:30 this morning I woke up, awaken Pop, and Tom and by 6:15 we were ready to go. Armed with clam guns (no ammunition since they are actually special types of shovels) we headed out for the ocean -- 1/2 mile away -- in the car.
Now it seems that the clams give himself away by letting a little bubble of air escape. You find him about 25 yards from the ocean and about 6 under. You spot the little hole and if you're an expert you take one shovelful and pull a clam out. If not you do what we did. I would take about 2 shovelfuls, and then go digging around with my hand. You would then get his neck and pull up slowly. At the beginning we were all smashing and cracking the clams as we dug but after a while we got the knack of it. We all (Tom, Al and myself) were able to get the limit. You'll never guess how many. Twenty-four (24) a piece in about 1 hour and 1/2 (1 1/2 hour). Al and I got our limit first so he let me drive the car around on the sand. It's the second time I've totally driven around this summer.
We returned to our cabin after one of the best mornings of the trip just as the rain started to come down. (I think I'll try it again tomorrow morning since low tide is a little later -- 8:30 -- that means we have to be there at 7:30).
All morning (up to 11) we spent our time cleaning the 72 clams (That was after we had eaten a hearty breakfast). We first soaked them -- next we put them in boiling water and immediately after in cold water -- that took off their shells -- we next got instructions on how to clean the clam itself. Armed with a pair of scissors we went at it. We cut off the top of the neck and the very insides. We then washed it again. We did this individually for 72 clams -- and big ones too -- when we were finished cleaning we had about 4 pounds of just clam meat -- we started with about 20 pounds (actually about 15 pounds) of clams with the shells.
Pop knew a woman in town and she made us some clam chowder soup. She ground up the clams and didn't put any thyme (I think that's the way you spell it) in it. We made a supper out of that. I had one bowl of the stuff but resorted to cheese, peanut butter & jelly, and other tastier dishes.
However I still haven't related what happened from 11 to 6. In the pouring rain we went to a logging depot with a man and expected to get into the woods itself to see the actual logging. It was raining to hard so we were forced to return. I hope I don't get a cold from this miserable weather.
We got back at 4 and I made up for lost sleep and slept from 4 to 6. We wandered around tonight and I came back 1 hour ago to write.
Please send this to Carl. I know he'd love to hear from me personally but I really have to wreck an evening to write.
Keep on enjoying yourself and take pleasure with me in all the things I am learning. Stay well and save some steaks for me.
You know I love you, Paul
Day 45 -- Monday, August 9
Dear Folks,
Hi -- we're just having a swell time. I was much impressed by the Coulee dam. We had a swell time at the Pacific beach and also at Seattle. It was a swell town and we had fun going into the second rate bargain stores. Keep writing.
Dear Carl,
Hi -- we're really having swell time -- Dam is impressive -- Had fun getting clams at Pacific Beach Washington. We're headed for Bamph and Lake Louise. I hope to see Jim at Big Timber. Write a little huh? I'll be at the house in J. L. on Sept. 1. Keep having a good time.
Day 49 -- Friday, August 13
I know I've been getting lazier and lazier in my writing to you, but I can offer no excuses. Please don't expect very much more mail. I'd rather watch scenery or read books (I finished "Anna Karenina" and I'm now on "Pocket Book of the Best Short Stories"), or just sleep. I've become very inept at that.
I've been continuing to enjoy myself. At Pacific Beach I had a swell time just resting. We went around the Olympic Peninsula (up near Vancouver Island) but then we were just traveling through virgin woodlands. It wasn't too interesting. We went back through Olympia and on to Seattle. That was a nice town. They have a farmers market down by the waterfront (Juan de Fuca Straits) and we all enjoyed ourselves just walking through the place. We stayed in the back yard of a relative of Pop's and we headed on the next day for Grand Coulee Dam. The dam was quite impressive because of it's size but outside of that we had seen almost the identical thing at Boulder Dam.
We've been having terrible weather. It has rained (not for a long time, but just enough to make it annoying) for the last six out of seven days. It's going to be swell when we get on to the Eastern side of the Rockies.
After the dam (I found the talk about their plans very interesting) we buzzed through Spokane and went up to Sandpoint, one of our mail-stops. We spent the next day there using the towns free athletic facilities. I emphasized cheap because Pop has gotten cheap about some things. For instance driving the car a mile or two, or skimping on the good food. The other day we ate in a restaurant and for lunch Pop limited us to 70˘. Tom had a 75˘ dinner and Pop made Tom pay him the nickel. Also, then, he asked us not to buy milk for we
had some in the car. That's getting cheap to me. I know what mother would say about that. You'd say, moth, that we should give it to him straight, but under the circumstances it is really quite impossible.
To continue, at Sandpoint we really had a good time playing football, basketball, ping pong, and doing a little swimming. That was the first sprinkling of athletics I've had this trip and I found out how much I missed it.
From Sandpoint we traveled the remaining 60 or so miles to the Canadian border and we worked our way up to Kimberly, a large mining district. It is said to be the largest iron, zinc and lead mine in the world -- the name -- the Sullivan Mine. In the morning we watched the crushing process (making the ore in the rocks smaller than 4 inches in diameter). In the afternoon we saw the concentration process, -- more crushing and finally the separating of the metals by a process called flotation. It was really worth seeing, but we weren't able to go into the mine itself. From our campsite there in Kimberly, we headed up to where I am now, Lake Louise, in Alberta, Canada. Traveling through beautiful Rocky Mt. country yesterday and today. The roads have been terrible in Canada but that was to be expected. We camped in Kootenay National Park. about 80 miles from here last night and we did the rest. Traveling today we saw a conglomeration of animals. We saw two coyotes -- later we saw two bear cubs. (I got pictures of both of them). Later on we saw two moose. I took a picture but I don't think it'll come out.
We finally got here at Lake Louise. It certainly is beautiful but very small (about 1 mile long and 200-500 yds wide). I know •cause I rented a canoe and had a nice ride. The hotel is quite impressive but they say the one at Bamph is much nicer (it's about 80 miles away). The thing that makes this place is the beautiful Victoria Glacier at the end of the lake. I would advise, however beautiful this place, that you don't base a tour on it. It is expensive as [hell], the roads are poor and it's a long way from anyplace. Once we're here it's nice. Keep the tennis courts at the shore in good shape. Hope you are completely rested.
Day 57 -- Saturday, August 21
It's been hard to write. Have been on the move constantly. Enjoying myself. Yellowstone Park's swell. Will start heading cross-country tomorrow. Will be in Montreal about the 28 or 29. Will be home the first. Plenty of bears -- Geyser's swell. Keep tennis court in shape.
Day 61 -- Wednesday, August 25
Again, I have to apologize for not writing but I just can't tear myself away from the things I'm not doing to drop you a line. I am in good health, and after a good meal and with clothes on, I weigh almost 115 pounds. I don't think I've grown any taller and neither my personality nor my countenance has changed. I have seen many wonderful things, learned much, and have gained a lot of needed experience.
The trip is just about fading. Al can't wait to get home to get set for Virginia (he doesn't say definitely but I think we all know) and Tom can't wait to see his sister married. Bob doesn't care -- Bill would like to take his time and I -- well I would like to get away from these mosquitoes and get to sleep on a good bed with a steak dinner in my stomach. I've really enjoyed my trip however and I am really thrilled that I was fortunate to come.
Lake Louise was nice -- Canadian roads on the way back were terrible. Glacier National Park wasn't too "hot," but Yellowstone was nice. (I guess you've noticed that the explanations have been shorter in my letters, but I'd rather talk). Right now I'm in a bar with ginger ale on the table, writing to you.
From Yellowstone and it's sulfur or rotten egg smelling geysers we made our trip cross-country. Mount Rushmore in South Dakota (heads of Washington, Lincoln, Roosevelt and Jefferson were very realistic).
You would really be surprised how barren the west was. South Dakota and Wyoming were barren. The only states in the far west that weren't deserts were the mountain regions, California and regions fed by dams.
In Deadwood, South Dakota we saw the reenactment of the shooting of Bill Hickock. It was swell and we had a night's fun. It was a play and about 300 were present. Jurymen were needed and Al was called up -- we gave him a good round of applause -- they found out he was too young and they sent him back to us.
After that, at 10:00, we headed east, without stopping to sleep, until now. That meant we drove one night -- I slept about 6 or 7 hours so I can't complain. We drove about 900 miles in one stretch -- 600 last night and 300 today -- we got into Minneapolis this morning at 6 and continued driving.
Give this to the folks (grandma and pa), Carl, or anyone else crazy enough to read it.
Take care of yourself and make sure you get a good buy on the Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, house. We'll be home August 30th late at night or the next day.
Love to all, Paul
Epilogue - August 11, 1948
[Letter from Paul's parents to his parents to Paul's brother Carl]
Carl sweetheart,
We've changed our minds about stopping off at your camp. It is almost 300 miles off our route and when we get to camp we can spend so little time with you. You'll be home about the 25th which is only ten days from Sunday. Dad and I have these few extra days and we're sort of anxious to see the country. The road to you is under repair for miles so would you please excuse us this trip. I'm sure you will not mind too much, for you are quite busy anyway, but we were very anxious to see you, and, of course, had a hard decision to make.
Paul has constantly asked us to send you some of his letters, but we thought we would bring them to you. Now I will enclose three of the last ones which are most interesting. Please, Carl, do not destroy them for they are really a diary of Paul's trip and he may wish to refer to them. I know you will enjoy them as much as we did. He thinks of you frequently as you will see. If I can I will send you a pair of sneaks size 6. We may pass a large store somewhere on our way down the New England coast. We expect to be home Sunday night. Write to us at home.
I did not exactly understand your meaning, darling, when you wrote today -- "the boys all seemed nicer to me after the wiener roast." I thought they had been nice to you before. Maybe I was just reading into the words, but you know, I so want you to be happy with your playmates.
Continue enjoying your last weeks at camp. You'll have much to tell us, I know when, you arrive home. Tell us details about your home-coming so we can meet you with bells on.
What is the custom at your camp about giving gifts to counselors? Could you let me know, for I would like to do the right thing. Your Bob seemed to be such a nice fellow.
Our love to you pussy, Mom and Dad.
P.S. We decided to send Paul's letters separately. Be sure to keep them for I value them.
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